I've been surfing everyday! Me and Ryan went surfing the other day, and I got barreled!!!! It was huge out there! Supposedly it was a high surf advisory, but it wasn't as big as they forecasted. The waves were awesome, and we had the spot to ourselves for at least an hour! :) That spot is nice because even when all the other spots are small, this one still has some size!
I am also proud to say that me and Ryan were the very last ones to paddle in at Queen's last night! :) We surfed until the sun went down and then some! I think we got in around 8:30 pm, it was pitch black! There were three old guys out there (who think they own the spot) that stayed out past sunset too, but I wanted to outlast them, so we stayed! And it was soooooooo gooooood! Ryan got barreled on the inside twice! I think we actually surf better at night! Hahahaha we were throwing water all over the place!
I also, finally figured out which combination of sunblock to use so that my face doesn't get burnt when I surf in the middle of the day!
First I put on Neutrogena SPF 70, and then I put Vertra SPF 50 on top! It makes me look like a ghost, sort of, but it works!!!!!
Yesterday, I started fixing my Doobie, my 5'4" quad. It's the very first board I ever shaped and glassed, with the help of Ryan! :) I originally thought I only had to fix one spot, but as I inspected my board, I found 2 more! Then, while I was curing the patches, I decided to take all the wax off the deck, and guess what I found? Another ding! So I had to fix four total, but now at least it's water tight! :) All I have to do now is sand and fill....but that can wait! And after than, I want to fix all of my other boards that need ding repair, I think I have about three or four more......actually I can't remember which boards need fixing - how many boards do I have again? I should go count them!
Here is the Doobie, my 5'4" quad, and one of my favoritest boards! I custom drew the design of the tree on the deck! :) It's so beautiful!
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